Over the years, long and flowing wigs and braiding expansions have occupied the catwalks of the Ivory Coast’s popular pageant.
Competitors in West African countries often spend a lot of money on appearance, from clothing to hairstyles – rarely have a natural look.
In more than sixty years, there are only two notable exceptions, most recently, Marlène -Kany Kouassi, who won Miss Ivory Coast in 2022 – her short hair is shorter than natural hair, and the crown becomes her only decoration.
Her victory is unusual not only on the Ivory Coast, but around the world, with Western beauty standards usually the look needed for those who compete and judges.
Changes are slowly spreading – Last December, Angélique Angarni from Martinique, France -Filopon was crowned Miss France, mainly because of her age – she was 34 – she was still very short-lived African hair.
But this year, the organizers of the Ivorian competition were shaking from the beginning.
The initial phase of the competition banned wigs, braids and hair extensions, which took place in 13 cities across the country (and two diasporas from abroad).
“We want candidates to be natural – whether it’s braids or straightened hair, it should be theirs.
“I’m a fan of wigs. I love wigs…I didn’t expect this rule!”
Ivory Coast is the only African country to impose a ban on competing nationwide.
Mr Yapobi said the organizers of the Ivory Coast have long struggled to promote a more natural look – for example, cosmetic surgery is taboo, while flickering skin is frowning.
“This year we decided to really showcase the natural beauty of these young women,” he said.
Other changes have also been implemented, such as allowing women to compete with slightly shorter women – now at a minimum of 1.67 million (5.4 feet), increasing the age by three years to 28 years, and crucially – reducing admission fees by more than $30 (£25) to $50.
“The change in standards is because we observe that these young women are raising a lot of money to participate, and that has become a budgetary expense.”
When the BBC joined Daloa’s first preliminary beauty pageant, a major city in the western region of Haut-Sassandra, one contestant was happy with the new rules – it felt like it gave her a greater chance of success because she prefers not wearing a wig.
“I’ll see other girls with long faux hair and look pretty,” 21-year-old real estate agent Emmanuella Dali told the BBC.
“This rule makes me even more proud of being an African woman.”
Daloya contestants are the first to try out the rules of all-natural hairstyles [BBC]
The move aimed at celebrating the natural beauty has sparked a lively debate across the country where wigs and extensions are popular.
As a fashion option, many women prefer the creativity that wigs and braids allow. They are also used as so-called “protective styles”, which means minimizing daily pulling and pulling that can lead to cracked hair.
Some competitors in Daloa believe the rule removes elements of personal expression.
“I’m a fan of wigs. I love wigs,” said contestant and makeup artist Astrid Menekou. The 24-year-old told the BBC that she was initially shocked by the unreserved, unextensive rules.
“I didn’t expect this rule! But now? I like my hair, it’s OK.”
The new rules have made competitors consider the concept of beauty more – and have changed some perspectives, such as those of Laetitia Mouroufie.
“Last year, I had an expansion because I thought that’s what beauty means,” the 25-year-old told the BBC.
“This year, I have more confidence in being myself.”
Ange Sea works at a salon in Daloa, fearing that the new rules will have an impact on her business [BBC]
If competition affects attitudes outside the beauty pageant world, it can have a huge economic impact.
Wigs with human hair can last for years and if properly cared for, the price may range from an estimated $200 to $4,000, while the synthetic price will cost around $10 to $300.
The Ivory Coast hair industry is worth over 300mA years, with wigs and braids accounting for a large share of this market.
“This rule is not good for us,” Daloa’s 30-year-old hairdresser Ange Sea told the BBC.
“Many women love wigs. It hurts our business and we make more money when using wigs and braiding.”
In her salon, glue will be used to carefully fix the wig to make it look more natural, while women will spend hours braiding and expanding.
It shows the depths of wig culture in West Africa, although natural hair movements have been gaining momentum among black women around the world for the past decade.
Former Beauty Queens, many wearing wigs, among Daloa’s audience [BBC]
Natural hair products have become more accessible and natural hair influencers are flooding around the world and offer advice on how to manage and style natural hair, which can be time-consuming.
Naturally, hair that is to wear hair naturally is considered unprofessional, and it is extraordinary to see the natural hair of a black female TV star or board CEO on the screen.
This is usually still the case in Ivory Coast, according to Florence Edwige Nanga, a hair and scalp expert in Abidjan, the main Ivorian city.
“Open the TV [here]you’ll see almost every reporter wearing a wig.
“These beauty enhancements are fashionable, but they can also cause problems – such as hair loss or scalp infection,” she warned.
With the preliminary round, the debate continues over whether beauty pageants should have beauty rules or women should decide on these things themselves.
The result may be that on the Ivory Coast, both have more acceptance, allowing women to switch styles between natural hair and wigs and weaving.
Mr Yapobi said the feedback he received on the new rule was “extraordinary” and clearly showed that it had an impact.
“Everyone congratulates us. Everyone, even from abroad. I get emails and WhatsApp messages from anywhere, congratulations on our desire to return to our roots.”
“I didn’t win, but I’m proud. That’s who I am.
He said there was no decision on whether the wig ban would apply to the 15 entrants in the 2025 Ivory Coast final.
The event will be held at a hotel in Abidjan in late June and will be broadcast on national television.
“If it works, we will continue this initiative in the coming years,” Mr Yapobi said.
For Doria Koré, who continued to be appointed Miss Haut-Sassandra, her crown had a greater significance: “Winning with natural hair shows the true beauty of African women.”
Ms. Dali said she was walking away with something more valuable – Confidence: “I didn’t win, but I’m proud. That’s who I am.”
Nicolas Negoce of the BBC and Noel Ebrin Brou on other reports on Abidjan.
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