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The Interior Guide to the Northeast – Japan’s Historic Ryokan Region

The Northeast of Japan is great 17Th– The Century Writer Matsuo Basho – His masterpiece recorded a journey to the north of his country, Narrow roads deep in the north and north. The land he described was one of the holy mountains, samurai castles, pine forests and roadside hotels, rowing along the postal road: wild and beautiful borders, the landscape stirred the poet’s pen. In the 21st century, Toohoku is served by ultra-fast Shinkansen trains and is crossed by multi-track expressways. However, in it you can still find the pastoral scenery that Basho will be familiar with, as this is a very far from Japan’s good tourist routes. And, indeed, you might be like a poet in Ryokan, despite (despite the addition of power and Wi-Fi), essentially, generations have remained the same.

Guests can enjoy an open-air bathroom in Wabizakura Ryokan, Kakunodate, Samurai town. Photos of Kakunodate Sanso Wabizakura

What is Ryokan?

Ryokans date back to the eighth century. However, they appeared in the early Edo period (1603-1867) when Basho traveled – merchants and samurai were moving. Stepping into Ryokan today, you immediately cross the threshold of the past. The wider world of Habbobu is filled with pious booing. Swap the shoes for slippers and tatami mats on hard floors. Your host may provide you with matcha tea; pour water from a boiling black kettle boiled over the boiling furnace. Here you may start to master Omotenashi – A word similar to “full-hearted hospitality”. Many have been in the same family for centuries, and for their employees, receiving guests is not only a profession, but a higher appeal.

Ryokans accommodation has little similarity to Western-style hotels (also available in Japan). The room has a paper screen to act as a partition instead of a wall, while the futon is usually provided instead of a bed (although some Ryokans still have the Tatami bed option). Indeed, you will notice that there is almost no decoration inside, except Tokonoma – Place objects such as flowers and calligraphy to reflect the changing seasons. Encourage guests to wear Yukata – A lightweight kimono – coordinated with the settings. It also makes people equal – a kinship with other guests and all those who have never been seen before.

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The tea is provided at Wabizakura Onsen, Kakunodate town. Photos of Oliver Smith

In the main dining area of ​​Tendoso Ryokan

In the rooms of Tendoso Ryokan, there are simple and elegant Japanese decor. Photography by ena Fujita, Tricolage

One of the main attractions of staying in Ryokan is to quiet the mind: stare at the bamboo racks in a pebble garden or courtyard, and listen to the squeaking of ancient wood and the rain in the sink. But living alone also requires refreshing your body. Ryokans often have their own Onsen – thermal springs found throughout Japan. These naturally heated bathrooms usually replace traditional bathtubs and can be used in a single room in the form of private facilities or in public affairs (in turn, divided into male and female facilities, only in rare cases).

However, in all cases, you must adhere to strict Onsen etiquette. First shower and then pat yourself with a towel before entering the water. All bathers must be naked – swimsuits are not allowed, although experienced Onsen Goers cleverly balance the towel’s head. The waters of Onsen vary by location and mineral content: some straws emit a distinct odor, while others are milky and odorless. Many people are visited for their famous anti-aging abilities, and some are said to contribute to diseases such as rheumatism. In all cases, they are soothing: it doesn’t feel like staring at the Ryokan garden while the ground below floods the warm waters.

I often enjoyed onsen High – This meal serves Ryokan guests in their room or in their private dining area. kaiseki There are many courses that are offered in a specific order, with a focus on seasonality. The meal evokes a banquet for noble travelers over the past few centuries.

The appearance of Ryokan Ohnuma

Located in Naruko Onsen, Miyagi Prefecture, Ryokan Ohnuma has eight hot spring baths to choose from. Photography by ena Fujita, Tricolage

A high banquet

Kaiseki banquet held in Wabizakura Ryokan. This is a traditional Japanese meal involving multiple courses. Photos of Kakunodate Sanso Wabizakura

How to visit Tohoku’s Ryokans

Ryokans exist throughout Japan, but some of them are most distinctive in Tohoku. Heading to Dake Onsen, a small town in the mountainous area of ​​Fukushima Prefecture, registering in Hanakanzashi, who had lasted for seven generations in the same family. Onsen is provided by spring on the downhill of Adatara Stratovolcano Mountain five miles away. Another good option is Tendoso – Tendoso – a type of Ryokan, which originated in the 19th century, is located in the town of Tendo Onsen in Yamagata County. Tendoso has been known for its service since the beginning unagi – Freshwater eel – a unique dish High The banquet was cooked in sauce and its recipes were never shared outside the owner’s home. From Tendo Onsen to the ancient mountaintop temple in Yamadera, this is a small jump – visited by Basho Narrow roads in the deep north The poet famously hears the sound of cicadas in the rocks.

In the north, just in Kurikoma Quasi-Ethnic Park, the town of Naruko Onsen is home to Ryokan Ohnuma, which features interiors decorated with ceramic murals, except for the nearby Al Fresco Onsen. It is an intoxicating and rustic event compared to the rather magnificent Ryokan in Wabizakura, where new residences were built around the houses of 200-year-old merchants outside the outskirts of Kakunodate in the Samurai town. The highlight here is another outdoor Onsen on the edge of the Mulan Forest: an oasis of deep peace north of Tohoku.

This paid content was created for the Japan Tourism Bureau. It does not necessarily reflect the national geography perspective, National Geographic Traveler (UK) or its editorial staff.

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