This article is from National Geographic Traveler (U.K).
A small farm and low-key town area in the southern state of Mexico remains the real thing about the country’s indigenous roots. There are some settlements here that have been around for more than 5,000 years. Those who visit the Great Valley of Oaxaca and today’s Chipas jungle can glimpse the real insights into the daily life of the First Nations.
Oaxaca and Chiapas are both different centers of civilizations before the Aztec Empire appeared around 1300 AD in central Mexico. Everyone has their own grand, hidden city – Mountaintop Montep of Oaxaca flourished from 500 BC to 850 AD, while the forests of Chiapas shrouded Palenque in Palenque reached its highest level at the CE of the sixth and seventh centuries.
The influence of each kingdom can be evident on the streets of the main cities of the two states today. Buskers in the zocalo, or central plaza, of Oaxaca de Juárez (Oaxaca City for short) sing in Zapotec, a language descended from one spoken by Monte Albán’s founders, while Maya women running market stalls in Chiapas’s cultural capital San Cristobal de las Casas chat in a tongue similar to that carved on the walls of Palenque.
Apart from the rich culture of the city and the remnants of the history of the rich country, there is no destroyed natural landscape, and it has been explored and matured. The huge jungle of the southern Chiapas is crashed with waterfalls and a revelry monkey soundtrack, and is home to the elusive Jaguar. In Oaxaca you will find vertical hiking trails in the central mountains, soft pools on the top of petrified waterfalls and turtles gathering across the sweeping white beaches. On the Guatemala border is Mexico’s own Lagunas de Montebello National Park under the radar lake area.
While traveling to the South can still be a primitive experience, the country’s significant investment in its tourism infrastructure means this part of Mexico is easier than ever. The 11-hour train, launched at the end of 2023, now extends directly from the “lost city” Palenque in Chiapas to the resort of Cancún in Quintana Roo, while New Highways connects Sleepy Shoreide Towns to major cities and their airports. As the country gradually opens its hidden heartland to the outside world, it is a moment to see the South before the inevitable transformation.
Itinerary 1: Oaxaca
starting point: Oaxaca City
end: Lagunas de Chacahua
Distance travel: 321 miles
Average length: Seven days
Over the past 50 years, the sleepy valleys and misty mountains of Oaxaca have little change, with corn and agave fields pierced primarily by Pueblos (small towns), and cobbled streets occupying the low-rise buildings. Each lane always contains a mandrel tavern and blows up Corridos of traditional Mexican folk, as well as stalls for sale in the street-side Tarpaulin.
The route begins in the state capital city of Oaxaca, where time has been available to explore within the mottled yellow walls, staring at the elaborately carved church facade. It is one of Mexico’s most popular destinations and it is very opposed to external influences or interventions. Local brands and production dominate, food is completely unique to the country, you hear the language people speak on the streets, and there is almost no other place in Zapotec.
Next, use the local bus network or booked trips to reach the relics of hidden cities in the state’s powerful mountains. Before the last cheer on the Pacific coastline, stop in the small town nestled in the ramp of the fertile valley, a sunny sand sprinkled with laid-back beach communities.
1. Oaxaca City
The eyes of the Mexican city may be the state capital of Oaxaca, known for its unique cuisine, indigenous culture and raucous parades. Almost all the highlights are within walking distance – Jump the cafe in the quarterly decorated Jatatlaco, meet Mezcal-style cowboys in the Cantinas, and stop for street food. At the end, a 20-minute bus was taken to the remains of Zapotec in Monte Albán, located on the top of a left-hand mountain overlooking the city.
2.
The small town of Oaxaca represents the basic characteristics of the state, and the man sitting on the tree-lined foothills of the Sierra Mountains has become a creative paradise. Its key appeal is the former textile factory-turned-up Centro de Las artes de San Agustín (Casa), which hosts an eclectic exhibition of painters and sculptors across the state.
3. Mitla
The sacred Zapotec and Mixtec cemeteries of Zona Arqueológica De Mitla were used for ritual sacrifice until the 16th century to perform ritual sacrifices, filled with ruins engraved with geometric patterns. Explore its legendary artifacts before capturing colectivo (shared taxi) to Hierve El Agua, a rare example of calcified waterfalls. Enjoy the views of the valley while immersing in its mineral-stained pool.
The high-rise travertine rock (“water boiling”) forms a natural boundless pool. Photos of Anna Bieniek, Photos of Alamy
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The mountains towering in this small but friendly town are too high to reach the peak even if the clouds are not reaching the peak, but with no guidance, some higher visions can be easily accessed. Follow the well-marked 20-minute trail to the surveillance, or embark on the more challenging, 10-mile outdoors to the San Mateo Río Hondo Trail, crossing tall forests and green bridges. Spend overnight in Cabañas Rancho Viejo.
5. Mazunte
This laid-back town is made up of surfers and sunbathing seekers, attracts more playful crowds than its famous neighbor, Escondido, Puerto Rico. Mazunte is the only coastal Pueblo Mágico in Oaxaca (the “magic town” recognized by the government for its beauty), and its golden sand is brought by palm groves. Watch the coastline and see turtles hatch into the sea and spot migrating humpback whales on the horizon.
6. Lagunas de Chakavava
Wildlife flourishes in this tranquil enclave, a national park known for its secluded lagoons and off-grid beaches. Arrangement of a tour of mangroves is simple, either one of the beachfront hotels from nearby Escondido Puerto Rico or the small town of Chakahu. Daytime spies egrets, iguanas and crocodiles, or set out after the darkness to swim among bright blue bioluminescent plankton.
Itinerary 2: chiapas
starting point: San Cristóbal de las Casas
end: Lacandón Rainforest
Distance travel: 475 miles
Average length: 10 days
The dense jungle of southern Mexico is the thickest in Chiapas, one of the heart of the powerful Mayan civilization. The centuries-old Central American city and home to traditional villages, where Mayan language is still spoken and pre-Catholic sacrifice continues, Chiapas is very proud of its cultural heritage. To this day, many in the state do not recognize Mexico’s authority and declare themselves citizens of Chiapas’ free and sovereign states.
Since the earliest days of American civilization, the state’s natural highlights are naturally dramatic: sultry jungle and towering canyon walls, joining mist-shrouded pine forests, bringing together lagoons and secret waterfalls.
San Cristóbal de Las Casas is the gateway to the state, but those who are no longer taking risks. The route attracted Palenque’s “lost city” and the small towns that have hardly changed for centuries, a national park that has been largely ignored by international tourists, bringing travelers deeper into the hidden world of Chiapas.
1. St. ChristóBal de Las Casas
Lively’s “San Cris” is the center of Indigenous craftsmanship and colorful colonial-style architecture, the most visited place in Chiapas, for good reason, and most of the state’s tours left the city. Browse amber gem stones and hand-woven clothes, line up in a narrow, sloping streets, and head to its ochre-colored cathedral, especially atmospheric at sunset.
2. Sumidero Canyon
When the Spanish Conqueror finally covered Chiapas, the last standing combatant was believed to have thrown himself into the Canyon of Samedro instead of accepting defeat. This story resonates especially when you first pat your eyes with a soaring cliff, which landed sharply on the Murky Grijalva River, home to numerous crocodiles. Boat tours the canyon cruise and ends up in the charming town of Chiapa de Corzo.
3. San Juan Chanla
In this indigenous Mayan village, Spanish is an exotic tongue, native traditions and spirituality flourish. Pick up fresh fruit, grilled corn or holy statues at the market before heading to the so-called “Chicken Church”. If you do visit, respect the pre-Colombian ceremony (absolutely no photos, except its painted exterior), which may include the product – two liters of Coca-Cola, or the sacrifice of live birds.
4. Lagunas de Montebello
The first national park in Chiapas, Lagunas de Montebello, has a powerful 59 swimming pool separated by thin forest belts. Tour along loose dirt trails to get close to their huge waters and reach scenic views. Lead the tour from San Cristóbal de Las Casas and stop at El Chiflón, a series of towering waterfalls stacked into a pristine, tree-like river with many major wild swimming attractions.
The temple with the inscription is the largest pyramid on the ancient Mayan ruins. Photos of Rodrigo Torres, Images of Getty
5. Palenque
After being abandoned around 800 AD, the city of Palenque was fascinated by the tendrils of the Lacandoen Rainforest and still hides many secrets. Explore the archaeological park, with highlights including the palace complex and the inscription temple. The halls that once walked past the acts of Mayan nobles were still decorated with stucco figures, and the rise and fall of the city were described in ornate hieroglyphs carved into limestone walls.
6. Lacandón Rainforest
The rainforest floors of the wandering Chiapas are not only rare animals—adventurous travelers walk the same trails, and local guides can ease the fallen paths of the jungle’s hidden waterfalls. Crossing the dark waters, crossing the low-growth mangroves of the Lacanjá River, listen to the call of the Holler monkeys.
Published in March 2025 National Geographic Traveler (U.K).
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